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No one wants to deal with issues related to their toilet, and one of the most common is also one of the most frustrating: The toilet simply won’t flush. Especially when you’ve gone through a simple checklist for minor issues that might be the cause, such as plunging the toilet to remove clogs for instance, and haven’t resolved the concern, this can be a frustrating issue.

At Action Plumbing, Heating, Air & Electric, we’re here to help with a variety of toilet repair needs, including for toilets that just won’t flush no matter what you do. We’ve seen every issue that might lead to a toilet flushing problem, and we know what to do to handle it. Whether on your own or with the assistance of our plumbers as-needed, here are some of the steps that should be taken to determine the cause of a non-flushing toilet, plus what can be done once the problem has been identified.

Concealed Clogs

As we touched on above, clogs are perhaps the single most common cause of toilets that won’t flush. While toilet paper generally won’t cause issues here, other items can, such as children’s toys, small items of clothing, and more. If you have a concealed pipe below your toilet – meaning one that runs from the floor up through the wall – this is where clogs are most likely to be found. Of course, every toilet is different here, so what works for one might not work for another.

Generally, though, using a quality plunger – either a cup plunger or an accordion-style – is the best course of action. If you’re not sure which to use, ask our plumber as needed. In addition, if your toilet has a pop-up stopper at the top that needs to be lowered before using a plunger, do so by pushing it from its handle at the side or from below, not from the top. Otherwise, you run the risk of damage to the stopper and a broken seal between it and your toilet flange – which can be a costly repair.

Draining Toilet

If plunging doesn’t work after a few tries, you might need to try draining your toilet. Make sure it’s safe to do so by first checking the water level in your toilet tank. If it’s too high or is becoming too high, shut off the water supply to your toilet. The shut-off valve is generally located either directly behind and above it (this might be a knob where you can twist and/or turn), or along the wall next to the floor behind and below the toilet tank.

Once you’ve ensured it’s safe to do so, flush your toilet and hold the handle down. This will cause any existing water left in the tank or bowl to drain into the waste pipe below, which can help allow for better plunging when you’re done. To finish, turn the water supply back on and try flushing again.

Toilet Tank

If that fails, you might have to remove the toilet tank itself. First, disconnect its water supply line at either the valve behind and above it or by releasing it from the wall where it’s attached near the floor. Then, detach the tank from its bowl by lifting straight up. If you have any problems here, ask our plumber for assistance.

Once the tank is out, you can try using an auger to clear any clogs in the waste line or by removing the one-way valve in the toilet’s supply line to see if that helps move things along. Keep in mind that it shouldn’t be removed if your system freezes in winter, however, as doing so will make it impossible to refill your toilet tank in time for use.

Handle and Chain Mechanism

Another possible issue that can be identified when lifting your toilet tank is the handle and chain mechanism that runs between the tank’s handle and flapper valve. If this sight causes you to see corroded metal or other signs of wear, it might be time to replace it with a new one. To install replacement parts, refer back to your owner’s manual for guidance, or just ask our plumber as-needed.

Flapper Concerns

The flapper is an inlet valve that’s responsible for moving water from the tank into the bowl of your toilet, but it may have worn out. If its chain is stretched, corroded, or broken, it might not move properly to open and close the flapper when needed. This can be cause for concern if you notice water leaking from the tank into the bowl below while your system is in use.

If you choose to replace a flapper on your own, be sure you turn off the water to your toilet by first shuttering the one-way valve until it’s completely closed. Then, use a wrench to remove its handle and/or screw cap to access the flapper inside. From there, you can simply put the new part in place of the old one, then adjust its position as necessary before replacing its handle or screw cap.

Overflow Tube

Finally, in some cases a cracked or otherwise damaged overflow tube can cause your toilet not to flush properly. This is due to the fact that the tube drains excess water from your tank in case it doesn’t get moved into the bowl, which can keep your system from overflowing onto the floor if you have a leaky flapper or other internal issue.

If this sounds like what’s going on with your toilet, just replace the broken overflow tube with a new one that’s been designed to fit your specific toilet. If you need help finding the proper part, just ask our plumber for guidance as-needed.

For more on how to handle flush-related plumbing issues in your toilet, or to learn about any of our plumbing or HVAC services, speak to the staff at Action Plumbing, Heating, Air & Electric today.

There are several examples of words or terms in the English language that just don’t make a whole lot of sense, and one that fits right into the HVAC world is duct tape. The word “duct” included in this title seems to pretty clearly indicate that this tape will be effective for sealing or otherwise repairing HVAC air ducts – but in reality, this is not the case at all, and duct tape is not recommended for these uses at all.

At Action Plumbing, Heating, Air & Electric, we’re happy to offer numerous HVAC services, from AC or furnace installation to many duct-related themes, including installation of ductless mini-split heating systems for those who want to remove any duct concerns whatsoever. We’re also here to steer you away from certain homeowner HVAC mistakes, one of the most common of which is using duct tape for HVAC ducts when this should never be done. This two-part blog will go over why duct tape and other forms of HVAC tape are limited at best in their efficacy when it comes to duct sealing or repairs, and generally should not be used for these purposes.

History of Duct Tape

For starters, it’s helpful to understand the history of duct tape to grasp exactly why it’s become such a misnomer today. Duct tape was created during the World War I period, originally meant as a consumer-grade tape that was meant for ammunition boxes. At the time, it was actually known as “duck” tape – either because it was made with duck cloth or because of the images its water-resistant properties invoked of water slipping off a duck’s back.

By the 1950s, however, this name had changed. Somehow, with folks assuming this tape would be useful for their air ducts, the term shifted to duct tape. However, as we’ll dig into further in our subsequent sections, duct tape is not actually useful for these purposes – more below.

Moisture Concerns

One of the top concerns with modern forms of HVAC tape, including duct tape, is moisture reaction. Many ducts will deal with water vapor and moisture, plus could have crack or leak issues that cause small amounts of condensed water to seep out. If you’re attempting to cover these issues with HVAC tape, it will not properly prevent this moisture leakage, leading to mold issues, water damage and other concerns.

Temperature Issues

Another major problem with duct tape is its inability to resist temperature changes. Your air ducts go through a wide range of temperatures throughout the year, but these fluctuations will wear down duct tape and cause it to lose its adhesive properties fairly quickly. What good is a sealant tape for an HVAC system if it can’t stay attached? None, really.

For more on why duct tape isn’t actual meant for your air ducts, or to learn about any of our HVAC or plumbing services, speak to the staff at Action Plumbing, Heating, Air & Electric today.

The summer period is often a great one to consider upgrades to your home’s heating capability – these services aren’t used as often during summer, for obvious reasons, but this means HVAC contractors will have fewer appointments and there’s a good chance heating equipment might come at a discount. One good example of a heating upgrade to consider during this period is a boiler system.

At Action Plumbing, Heating, Air & Electrical, we’re here to provide high-quality boiler installation at any time of year. Boiler systems, which run hot water through your pipes to create a system known as baseboard heating, are an alternative heating format that’s become very popular among many homeowners for its efficiency and ease of use. And if you’re among those who have already taken the chance to install a boiler system, or even if you’re considering one and want to know the kinds of upkeep areas you’ll have to think about when you upgrade, here are some basic maintenance areas to keep in mind for your home’s boiler system.

Water Levels

Roughly every few weeks or so, especially during heating season, you should be checking the basic boiler water level to ensure everything is in order. Most modern boilers contain specific markings noting where the water level should be at to operate optimally – if yours doesn’t, consult the operations manual or call our HVAC pros for assistance.

If you allow water levels in the boiler to reach too low, not only will your heating be sub-optimal, your equipment could be damaged. Boilers are not meant to run without proper water levels, and could lead to significant issues not only for themselves, but also for nearby plumbing.

Dust and Debris Removal

Boilers will accumulate some dust over time, just like any other element in a home that sits in one place. The main concern here is dust or debris making its way into the fan or the motor of the boiler, which can lead to parts wearing down faster than they should. When you dust the rest of your home, roughly once a week or so, also take some time to dust the boiler.

Lubrication

Like any other machine with moving parts, boilers need to be lubricated to ensure too much friction doesn’t build up. Fans, pumps and motors are the parts of a boiler that require lubrication – our pros can offer you tips on the proper lubricant and how to carry out this process.

Regular Inspection

Finally, as part of your yearly plumbing and HVAC inspection, you should have the boiler checked along with its plumbing lines. Professionals will help you determine if there are any leaks or faulty parts, plus other issues that might crop up during the winter.

For more on the basic upkeep you need to provide your boiler system, or to learn about any of our plumbing or HVAC services, speak to the staff at Action Plumbing, Heating, Air & Electrical today.

Congratulations, Utah homeowner: You’ve made it through the winter! This one was a heavy, wet cold season, one that surely placed a great deal of strain on your home’s plumbing and HVAC components – and now that spring is here, it’s time to assess where things stand headed into a big season change.

At Action Plumbing, Heating, Air & Electrical, we can offer you a wide range of air conditioner and overall HVAC maintenance as your transition your home from the cooler season to the warmer one. Here are several areas many handy homeowners like to take care of themselves when it comes to spring AC and HVAC maintenance.

Filter Replacement

For starters, spring should represent a continuation of a major theme from every other season of the year: Changing HVAC filters. This should be done around once a month or so, depending on your precise filter type and a few other air quality factors, and this is the case throughout the year. If you have pets or poor air quality in your home, you may have to change your filters even more often than this.

Failure to replace filters properly has a few negative results. For one, your air quality will be notably poor, even awful if you let it go long enough. For another, a clogged filter will force the rest of the HVAC system to work harder on a daily basis, raising your monthly bills and wearing down various components faster.

Floor Registers

One of the simplest HVAC risk areas that may form over a long period without service, such as winter, is dirt, debris and hair of various types building up and making their way into your floor registers. The best way to prevent this sort of thing throughout the year is by regularly vacuuming and sweeping major areas, especially near registers.

It’s always good, however, to add a deep spring clean to your list. Remove each vent from the floor and clean it with soap and a strong brush or sponge, getting rid of both dirt and any rust present. Before reinstalling the registers, allow them to dry completely.

Air Vent Grill

You should also locate your return air vent grill in your HVAC system, and clean it thoroughly during spring. You can use either a vacuum or hose here, plus a rag or even a knife to get in between the grill spaces and remove and additional grime or debris.

AC Unit Cleaning

Finally, make sure you address the actual AC unit, which can be prone to significant buildups of debris and even random household items during the winter. Check for any such blockages that might impact the air condenser’s ability to properly pump air in and out, and remove yard waste that could interfere here. If any plants or shrubs have grown out to the point that they impact the condenser unit, trim these back or remove them.

For more on basic spring HVAC preparation tips, or to learn about any of our plumbing, heating or air services, speak to the staff at Action Plumbing, Heating, Air & Electrical today.

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